When you are VERY successful, when you have the highest-selling red wine in the UK and a range of awards in your award cabinet (we all have one, don’t we?), do you rest on your laurels? Do you sit back and admire your success? No, you don’t because the a) there’s someone right behind you, keen to take the top slot and b) Why would you? There are always new things to do so why not do them?
Thus it was that I met the team from Cono Sur at Fizz, the Sparkling Wine show last October. Cono Sur Bicicleta is the most successful range of red wines in the country and Cono Sur have gained a reputation of drinkable, good quality wines, both from Bicicleta and from their other ranges, including and perhaps especially Reserva Especial and Silencio. So now, the front-runner in red is launching sparkling wines: a single Brut and a Rosé – no fancy marketing, no grand story, no alternate versions, just those two wines made to be easy and pleasant to drink. This is what sets Cono Sur apart – clarity, simplicity and an adherence to their vision of “No family trees, no dusty bottles, just quality wine” and uncluttered labeling. It’s a formula that works. In fact, their policy of simplicity and clarity run through everything they do so, when I spoke with them at the show, the interview was remarkably short – to the point, comprehensive and, yes, clear:
There comes a time when you want to gather friends and enjoy an evening with a bit more of a purpose than simply chatting, drinking and singing (maybe the singing is just my circle of friends). There are games nights, Murder Mystery Dinners (I highly recommend the range from Paul Lamond Games), tastings and many other, less conventional entertainments. In this case we’re talking beer tasting. I had too much and I have several friends who enjoy a glass of ale; this was a match made in heaven … probably not, actually, as you will hear: Read More →
Fizz, the Sparkling Wine Show in London every autumn is a terrific opportunity to get your taste buds and nose around some of the best new non-Champagne sparking wines on the UK market. It’s held in Church House in London in their glorious round hall and is organised by the indefatigable Ben Campbell-Johnson. It is also a great place to learn new things. For example, you may have Cava pigeonholed as a low-quality, volume drink to take to parties where you can foist it on other people, while you scoff the Champers but, according to Richard Hemming MW, you’d be, at least partly, wrong! Cava is emerging as one of the top non-Champagne sparklers. Now this came as a surprise to me so I went along to ask him what he means by this:
We’ve all been to Real-ale festivals, big and small; and we thought that CAMRA’s offering a few months ago at Olympia in London was pretty impressive. It was big but, depending on how you measure these things, it wasn’t the biggest: Wetherspoons are claiming that crown with festivals in every one of their pubs simultaneously, which, when added together, probably does make the biggest in terms of number of pints on offer, although not by range of ales. Still, this is not a time to be churlish nor an opportunity to be missed – I’d say a beer festival is never an opportunity to be missed – so I took a camera crew of students from Barnet College to my local Wetherspoon pub, the Tally Ho in North Finchely, to see what was going on. The students did fine. Considering …
If you are a French wine-maker, it is likely that you are a fairly small operation and that you could benefit from some sort of collaboration with other makers – be it through a coopérative or a négociant. Some, like the group calling itself Rhône Vignobles, choose a looser connection.
They held a tasting, with the able assistance of Peretti Communications, in London and I went along to see what’s what. Read More →
The Champagne Bureau’s Annual London Tasting was held this year in One Great George Street, ’round the corner from Downing Street, the Palace of Westminster and along the park from Buckingham Palace. As ever, the Peretti team set up a splendid bash. The great, the good, the adequate and the befuddled congregated like wildebeest to watering hole.; they all wanted to find out what’s gnu in Champagne. (sorry)
There is a dance or an on-going negotiation between, on the one hand, bar owners and brands and, on the other, the customers and it’s based on one agreed ambition: both sides want us, the drinkers, to have a good time. We want to do that with the minimum of fuss and the bars and brands want us to be happy to pay for doing that specifically with their own products. How the two ambitions should be brought together is an age-old question that drives the drinks and bars industry. Sam Surl has some ideas on the subject and he’ll happily tell you about them, given half a chance. I gave him that chance at the Boutique Bar Show 2014.
There are shows for everything. Wine shows, beer shows, trade shows, press launches etc. etc. etc. … it’s enough to drive you to drink! And this may seem hard to believe but there’s only so much free booze you can sample before you want to give up a head for bed with a hot chocolate. However, there is one congregation that I’m glad I joined and that is the Boutique Bar Show. The Boutique Bar Show is a sort of travelling circus of top-end, specialist, small producer spirits and mixers aimed at those trendy bars that would probably not let me in if it weren’t for a press card!
So off I went to the misnamed Camden Centre. Misnamed because it’s actually rather lovely. There I found lovely people who are all excited about doing all sorts of new things with cocktails. I love young people, they think they’ve invented the whole world all over again. Read More →
Once again, Ben Campbell-Johnston has put on a show of sparkling wines other than Champagne (other than a few specialists or boutique producers). This time held in Church House, a terrific venue. A grand time was had by all.
Sometime life simply gets in the way. There are periods when everything is going swimmingly – you do what you want to do in the time you need to do it and it all runs smoothly. Then there are the periods, of indeterminate duration, when there is too much to do, too much to consider and too much to think about to achieve any of the stuff you wanted to. Such has been our situation since the simply beautiful Definitive Italian Wine Tasting last June (I know!!!) in the Royal Horticultural Halls’ Lindley Hall.
So, with apologies to everyone who wanted to see this, here is a snapshot of the day – it was instructive, fun and beautiful.
You’re in a pub. You’re drinking a pint. You’re enjoying it and letting your mind wander. Have you ever wondered how that pint came to be there in your glass? No, neither have I … BUT we were at the Great British Beer Festival, we had a camera and a presenter, in the shape of Mark Phillips (no, not the horsey royal ex) so we decided to take that journey … BACKWARDS! Read More →
This is the story of a drinks journalist. A man who, through no fault of his own, found himself enjoying and talking about all drinks, other than those nasty sweet “alcopops” and novelty drinks in funny-shaped bottles that you bring back from holiday and sit in your cupboard for years until, one day, you or more likely your partner simply throw them out … or those revolting shameful concoctions that are based on chocolate bars with alcohol and thickeners added, which are a way for the behemoth of the drinks industry to lure those who would be much better off taking the tea-total route … like children and vulnerable adults … then I’m also not keen on the flavoured grain alcohols that masquerade as traditional Southern American whiskeys, when they’re nothing of the sort … breathe … breathe … OK. HOWEVER, there is one subject to which our journalist returns again and again: beer and, in particular, ale. Real, old-fashioned, hand-pulled ale.
So how better to celebrate that than to make an appointment with the largest beer festival in the UK and head down to Olympia for the Great British Beer Festival?
Grover Zampa joined forces with tennis legend Vijay Amritraj to bring out two wines from their vineyards in Bangalore, southern India.
They chose Vijay’s annual Wimbledon Summer party at the St James’ Court Hotel – a Taj hotel to launch them. This glamorous even was attended by stars of the worlds of tennis and wine and a splendid time was had by all.
Wine people are generally lovely! Winemakers have the long view to life that is needed when working in a job where, from planting to drinking can be 30 years! Wine importers and sellers and keen for us to buy things that make us feel good (if used in moderation) and, generally, wine writers and journalists really, REALLY love their work. Occasionally we even get paid to do this … not often and not many of us, but occasionally. So it was an utter delight to meet Jane Parkinson and hear her expound on the subject of Discover The Origin and Portuguese wines and, the very next day, attend the Wines of Portugal Annual London Tasting.
We knew it would be lovely, we didn’t expect it to be so interesting and surprising:
Beer is everywhere and is the oldest known alcoholic drink – beer yeasts were found in the Pharaoh’s tombs. The quality varies place to place and the styles and tastes vary over time but, starting from America out into the English-speaking world, craft beers are taking over. They have now properly reached Honolulu on Oahu in Hawaii, which can only make the place better, in our view (there are craft breweries on the other Hawaiian islands but not on Oahu). This growth in craft beer is partly fueled by home-brewers. Once we realised this … well, we had to go and check it out! Read More →
Leaving the autumn wine-tasting in the cellars of Berry Brothers and Rudd last October was more difficult than normal: not just because it was saddening to leave behind the blissful wines and the delightful company but also because, towards the end of tasting tables, was stationed the … well, I don’t know a better way to describe her, even though it appears patronising, than “charming” Amanda Baxter, the Product Training Manager from the spirits side of the business. She was offering tastings of rum (fabulous) and whisky (oh my!). This was after a string of Madeiras and wonderful, can’t-bring-myself-to-spit wines … so the undulating stairs up into the “real” world were more of a challenge than usual. And they really do undulate – the shop has been there for over 300 years, there’s barely a straight line in the place; it’s an Ikea designer’s nightmare! So I had to book a more sober appointment to learn more about the lesser-known side of Berry Brothers and Rudd – their spirits department, where I met a very contented and hard-working bunch of people.
As winter takes its hold and the mince pies are starting to make you yearn for a light green salad with balsamic dressing, it can’t be avoided, I’m afraid: Christmas is here. You will need to provide drinks (probably wine or sherry) for your guests and family (I suggest a discrete store of something stronger for yourself in those quiet moments) and sparkling wine will be required, nay demanded.
Now, you don’t want to spend buckets of dosh on a few bottles of Champagne, when you can spend a few pounds on buckets of sparkling enjoyment from other wine regions. So, feeling public-spirited, we’ve investigated the UK’s first wine show dedicated to non-Champagne sparkling wines. The conclusion we reached may surprise you .. OK, it might not.
English sparkling wines have a perception problem: Yes, they’re good, yes, they’re elegant and stylish, yes, they’re local but, when you come down to it they’re just not Champagne, are they?
True, they don’t yet have the history that comes with Champagne; but the times and the weather they are a’changing: with European temperatures rising, what were optimum conditions for Champagne are now found in Southern England. And it’s starting to show: Kent’s own Gusbourne Estate sparkling wines won medals galore this year against top Champagnes, gaining themselves much interest from buyers, journalists and consultants around the world, most of whom had, previously, simply not heard of Gusbourne.
So, to find out what they’re all about and how English wines are mounting a serious quality challenge to Champagne, we ventured down to Kent to meet the owner and the grower.
When you go on holiday to the south coast, you might travel to Devon. Perhaps to the rather twee and delightful fishing village of Beer. You’ll find a pleasant pebble beach, welcoming tea-houses and cafes, some very high-end art galleries and cosy pubs. You might wander into one of those pubs seeking a pint of local beer … you are in Beer after all. However, you might be in for a surprise because not only is there no beer from Beer, you won’t find any from the nearest brewery of Branscombe Vale. This struck us as odd, so we sent my producer, Johnny Mindlin, to investigate.
As I’ve said before on these pages, what you wear to a tasting is important because you’re likely to spill some wine on it. However, occasionally, the appropriate dress is a raincoat and wellies. Not because it’s going to be “that sort of party” but because it will be outdoors in this washout of a summer!
The UK Champagne market is, as we’ve said again and again, complex and crowded. Importers and makers need to fight prety hard to be noticed. One of the problems is the sheer number of brands and labels available. However what we, the consumers, often don’t realise is which Champagne is owned by which other Champagne house.
As the years roll by, I’m start to realise how short they’re becoming. Why, it seems only a couple of weeks ago that I was at the Champagne Bureau‘s annual tasting in the Banqueting House in Whitehall, London. As it happens, they DID hold the tasting the week before last, so that’s OK, then. Each year, there is an effort by the communications office to send out a new message about Champagne. This year, it’s that we’ve been drinking more expensive Champagne and this event was a chance to taste some of it in one of the most beautiful rooms in London.
The pub world is a fickle place – premises are closing all around us and, depending on whom you ask, the indutry is either in trouble or in crisis. In my own locality of Barnet in Hertfordshire (look me up, buy me a drink!) there are pubs boarded up, former pubs that are now private residences, independent financial advisors and one local is even due to become a funeral parlour … it’s a grave situation!
The Black Horse on Wood Street, one of the iconic Barnet pubs that was closed for a very long time appears to be bucking the trend (geddit?). It has been bought by Oak Taverns and is now re-opened and, let joy be unconfined, is starting up its own Barnet Brewery.
They have not yet actually started brewing and the tanks and casks fight for space with the kitchen supplies so I went up there to nose around and find out what is being planned. There I found Simon Collinson, the MD of Oak Taverns who told me all about it.
The clothes you wear to a tasting are important – you want something that you don’t mind staining with red wine; hence there is a prevalence of scruffiness and flamboyance in the wine-writing fraternity. So imagine the consternation caused by being required to wear a suit and tie to a tasting! I only own one suit … and it’s cream – definitely not safe in the presence of large quantities of red wine.
However, the invitation was from Sarah Abbott of Swirl Wine Events to a tasting featuring almost all the wine-making members of the Lurton family and held in the RAC Club on London’s Pall Mall. I mean … who could resist?
Food and wine go together like … well … food and wine! There is a huge amount of snobishness over which wines to serve with which food – red with red meats, white with fish etc. That’s all well and good but with the myriad of wines available to us, where do you start to chose the BEST one for this particular dish? The What Food What Wine team held a competition to try and find the answers (and there are many) to that question. They invited me to Mosiman’s Private Dining Club to see the awards being presented to the winners of this competition. They served Piper-Heidsiek Rare Milesime 2002 so who was I to refuse?
Regular visitors to this podcast series will be delighted to know that The Kernel Brewery in Bermondsey was one of only 3 finalists in the 2012 BBC Food And Farming Awards – I spoke with them last year (see the podcast on Mircrobrewing earlier in this series) and we congratulate them on their success!
You may know the wines of Wolf Blass from the supermarket, where his Yellow Label wines sell pretty well. But Wolf began by making premium wines, characterised as Black Label, Grey Label and, more recently, Platinum Label. These high-end wines are much more about the individual character of the vineyards and are priced to match.
As a new-comer to the range beyond the ubiquitous Yellow Label, I was delighted to be invited to the 2011 UK launch of the rest of the range, held in the breath-taking penthouse of the Radisson Edwardian Hotel in Mayfair.
There I was given a chance to talk to Wolf Blass’ chief wine-maker, Chris Hatcher:
Each group of drinks has an atmosphere, a “feel”: Beer is convivial, sociable and extended: one of life’s great lies is “Oh, I’ll just have the one!” … wine is considered, perhaps introspective, civilised … cider is refreshing and, like beer, for drinking in more public situations but it has a sense of danger … whiskey is for the serious drinkers, it can bring out the best and the worst in you … Gin, on the other hand, described by Dylan Moran as Mascara thinner, is a more refined drink for sipping … and vodka is the source, the distillation of reason … or un-reason.
All the major drink groups have their serious side; however, the one category of drinks that is uncompromisingly indulgent and fun, a little decadent and imbued with more science and art than most is the cocktail.
There is no doubt that ordering a cocktail is a statement about your approach to the occasion and the company and hints at your expectations of the rest of the evening. Cocktails can be sickly sweet, face-crunchingly astringent, long or short, sweet or sour but always worthy of attention, if only in a vain attempt to try and maintain a steady head.
One of London’s finest cocktail bars, The Lonsdale teamed up with London Cocktail Week so we went to meet them.
The Great British Beer Festival 2011 just ended at Earl’s Court in London. As a judge in the CAMRA beer festival, I have, on occasion, got to go along and taste beers entered into the competition to win a medal and, hopefully, the title Best Beer. In the midst of this arduous work, I have taken the opportunity to talk to some of the visitors to the festival. Read More →
Every area of work has its networks of colleagues, contacts and friends, and, in an ideal world, it’s difficult to tell them apart. The same is true of the fraternity and sorority of wine-writers. We meet and compete in the convivial atmosphere of tastings and presentations and develop a sense of closeness, of belonging … that sometimes even lasts after the alcohol wears off! Read More →
While the grand wine houses boast of their age and ancient heritage and the newer wine-makers talk of creating a lasting presence in winemaking, there is a group of Londoners who are doing it the way it has always been done. The Urban Wine Company have been gathering the grapes of private growers around London to create a wine that has been dubbed Chateau Tooting, although this year’s output goes by several names. Read More →
Some things are traditional and unchanging; or at least that’s the impression we have. It always rains at Wimbledon, the hats are huge at Ascot and Champagne will always be, well, Champagne. So, one might ask, what’s the point of the Champagne Bureau’s annual tasting in The Banqueting House, London if we’re going to get more of the same? Obviously, there’s the chance to taste unaffordable vintages and spend time in beautiful surroundings. But the times they are a-changing. There are trends and fads, styles and fashions so I went along in the spirit of research to find out what’s new in the ancient and tradition-bound world of Champagne: Read More →
Beer is possibly the oldest form of manufactured beverage; certainly, the earliest documented. Over the last century or so, it has gone from home- and pub-brewed ales, through the industrial-made horrors in the 60s/70s, and now it’s back among the small operators with an explosion of small and microbreweries around the country. These are sometimes little more than a single vat in a hygenically and fully licensed shed but they almost all produce beery nectar. The Kernel brewery has 6 fermenters and produces beautiful beers so I paid it a visit, there also to meet both a home-brewer and an establised player in this game. Read More →
A new vintage of wine like CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino is usually launched with a tasting and, occasionally, a party of some sort. These may be in highly prestigious city venues, in quirky Hoxton restaurants or at trade shows. While the tastings at the trade shows can justify themselves in a purely business sense, the other lunches and gatherings are, on the face of it, simply the chance for a good party. Read More →
Shochu is the newest thing at the bar. It’s not a wine, it’s not really a spirit as we understand it. It is Japanese but it is not Sake, so what it is and is it worth the effort of finding out? The Saki Bar and Food Emporium held a tasting of Shochu to help us answer these questions: Read More →
The annual Claret tasting at the Institute of Masters of Wine is a vital date in the diary of any serious wine professional. I went along to talk to some of the participants and get the measure of the 2006 Bordeaux vintage.
You will probably have heard of organic wine production but have you come across biodynamics? It’s the new kid in town, utilising homeopathy, astronomical charts and other practices that might seem odd at first sight. However, more and more growers are adopting biodynamic wine production methods in the belief that it is the best right way to produce the best wine. This is most obvious in Chablis and so I went to a seminar on the subject at the Royal Opera House in London to find out more. Read More →
If you really want to stand out in the world of wine, one thing you can do is get yourself qualified as a Master of Wine. This title is administered by the Institute of Masters of Wine. It’s a difficult course to complete and MWs are generally respected and held in high esteem within the trade. But how hard can it really be? My colleague, Johnny Mindlin, went along to an open day to find out
Gin has been around since the mid 17th century. It has a chequered history and a huge influence on the social history of England and particularly on London. While I’ve been a fan of the stuff for many years, I realised I didn’t actually know all that much about it so, when an invitation arrived to join the likes of Virginia Berridge from the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine and Philip Wilson of Eau de Vie at the launch of a gin club at the Graphic Bar I jumped at the chance: Read More →
Sake. Most people will have come across Sake as a body-temperature alcoholic drink served in Japanese restaurants, usually with Sushi. Most people know it’s made from rice and that it comes from Japan … and that’s usually where the knowledge ends. But Sake is carving out a clear niche among the wine cognoscenti as an alternative to grape wines. This rise in popularity is, no doubt, fuelled by the increasing number of sushi and other Japanese restaurants in the UK and by the growing realisation that Sake has huge variety and subtlety. This pleases connoisseurs and importers alike. One of the indicators of Sake’s rising import is its place within the International Wine Challenge, held this year at The Barbican in London. As someone who knew precious little about Sake, I was pleased to attend a seminar given by Kenichi Ohashi, as part of the Discovery Tasting sponsored by the Sake Samurai Association. The main thrust of the seminar was to compare the two styles of Sake: junmai and non-junmai. Read More →
A stroll through the wine section of your local supermarket or wine retailer will show shelves with almost equal space given to new and old world wines, to Italian and French, Chilean and South African. This is unrecognisable from 20 years ago, when the French dominated fine wine drinking in the UK and top of the wine regions was Burgundy, with legendary names like Latour and Chablis. So, for wine-buyers, why bother with Burgundy these days? The wine is generally more expensive than the rest and there is always a niggling worry that the region has been left behind by wine producers who change their styles to entertain and delight the palette. A perfect opportunity arose to answer that question in the annual trade tasting for the Burgundy region, held at Lords Cricket Ground. What do the makers have to offer a buying public spoiled by head-spinning choice? Read More →
The 5th Champagne Louis Roederer International Wine Writers’ Awards ceremony took place in September 2009 in a glamorous event at the very top of The Gherkin in St Mary Axe in the City of London. A lucky few of the wine trade’s great and gathered to celebrate the finest writing on wine and to witness the awarding of “Roederers” (with complementary magnum of Cristal) to some of the best writers in the business.
Since I had the honour of attending the Roederer Wine Writers Awards ceremony and as a tireless investigator of all things vineous and literary, I went to have a chat with some of the nominees and the organisers and learned some things that should give real pause for thought. This podcast is a preview of the event.
The wines of the south west of France or, in French, Les vins du Sud-Ouest, have, since the horrors of phylloxera, been fighting to get recognition on the international wine market. Cooperatives and wine makers have taken the region’s local grapes, such as Gros Manseng, Fer Sarvadou, Tannat, Pinenc and Loin de l’oeil and, using the diverse terroires, have created a range of wines that can now hold their own among the more traditional grape varieties. The region includes appellations like Cahors, Madiran, Saint-Mont, Fronton, Gaillac and Irouleguy. A seminar was held at the London International Wine Fair in May 2009, hosted by Anthony Rose, wine writer for The Independent Newspaper, to publicise these wines. I went along to Excel for the LIWF to find out what they have to offer and perhaps get some recommendations for summer drinks or wines for laying down. Read More →
Every week, we hear conflicting stories about the health benefits of wine – it gives you cancer, it helps you live longer, it’s good for you, it’s bad for you … but one thing that appears to be true is that people in areas of the world that grow certain red wines tend to live longer. To try and get to the bottom of this, I went to a seminar co-hosted by Roger Corder, professor of experimental theraputics at the William Harvey Research Institute; he has published a book called The Wine Diet, which looks at wine in relation to our health. He told me which types of wines we should drink if we want to get gain the most health benefits while ejoying really good glass of red.
Supermarkets like to publicise their wine lists twice a year; once in the spring, for the summer market and again in the autumn to highlight their Christmas drinkies. Sainsbury’s held their Spring tasting in the back room of the Delfina in Bermondsey and I set out to get a sense of what is likely to be good for the summer parties and picknicks from the Sainsbury’s range.
The Champagne Bureau’s annual tasting 2009 took place in March in the Banqueting House in Whitehall in London. It was a chance for the Champagne industry to get together and show the year’s new wines. I took my grumbling liver to Westminster to find out the state of the industry at this time.